Brown Butter

Liquid gold: What could be better than butter? Wait until you try browning it.
Amanda Gold, Chronicle Staff Writer
Wednesday, December 12, 2007
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The pastry chef responsible for my entry into the professional food world taught me a technique that I use - almost excessively - to this day.
We worked in the pastry kitchen of a high-volume San Francisco restaurant, where each week I would watch, mesmerized, as she unwrapped what seemed like endless pounds of butter into an oversized stainless steel pot. As the stove's flames licked the bottom of the pot, the butter melted into a gurgling puddle, hissing and crackling before turning into a molten bronze liquid.
She poured the butter into a bowl, then into the fridge it would go, coagulating into a solid mass. She'd spoon out scoops throughout the week, to add to the base of an upside-down cake, knead into shortbread dough or spoon into custard.
Brown butter, I quickly figured out, made everything taste better.
Also called beurre noisette, brown butter is a longtime staple of restaurant and professional chefs. For home cooks, all it requires is spending a few extra minutes keeping a watchful eye on the stove.
Brown butter works in both sweet and savory dishes. With its high fat and calorie content, it may not be an everyday staple at home, but it's a great splurge for the holidays. It instantly enhances ordinary vegetables, pasta, cookies and layer cakes, adding extra levels of flavor and a rich, complex nuttiness.
Since my days in that restaurant kitchen, I've gotten into the habit of keeping a bowl of brown butter at the ready in the fridge. I'll prepare a large batch, which takes just 20 minutes (see instructions on how to make brown butter, below right), and have it on hand for weeks.
Watching a stick of butter turn, it's hard not to appreciate the science. Like any liquid that's boiled down, the water in the butter evaporates as it cooks. The heat causes the milk solids to foam, then sink to the bottom of the pan before the liquid turns a golden hue.
However, the butter can turn from perfect to burned in a matter of seconds, so it's essential to watch closely. The end result is worth it. Brown butter's luscious characteristics emerge throughout the process - most notably, perhaps, its evocative aroma.
"What is this? Can I drink this?" my uncle asked a few weeks ago as I prepped for Thanksgiving dinner. A bowl of brown butter sat next to me on the counter, its foam cap dissolving into the liquid underneath. Slowly, each member of my family bent over to inhale its nutty perfume - amazed that such a tiny bowl could produce such an enticing fragrance.
That's a common reaction when brown butter is cooking, which makes it the perfect thing to pop on the stove if you're expecting guests - 15 minutes and the house will smell as though you've been baking for days.
In restaurants, you've likely seen brown butter in a sauce for sole meuniere or steeped with sage atop butternut squash ravioli - these pairings are as commonplace as beef and red wine. But after experimenting with recipes throughout the past several weeks, substituting knobs of it for regular butter, I found little that doesn't benefit from its addition.
In the recipe for petrale sole, for example, a traditional beurre blanc is used to blanket the mild fish, but toasty brown butter brings out the flavors of ginger and lemon, while adding its own unique element.
Ultimately, as long as you measure accordingly (butter loses about 25 percent of its water weight when cooked to brown, so you'll end up with three-quarters of what you started with) it's as simple as a quick substitution - finish risotto with brown butter instead of regular, or toss it with pasta, currants and the briny punch of capers and toasted pine nuts.
In baking, brown butter translates to a more caramelized flavor, and is especially delicious when mixed with brown sugar. A simple lemon bar recipe is updated when poured over a brown butter shortbread crust. Just one bite of this rich treat will suffice.
Likewise, the caramel apple cake is like a giant confection, with a sticky frosting that's delicious on its own.
This one ingredient lends a complexity to dishes that make them restaurant-worthy, but can all be done in your own kitchen. As far as tricks of the trade go, I still owe it to my mentor - this one should be in everyone's arsenal.
Making brown butter
As a general rule, I like to make brown butter ahead of time and keep a stock of it in the fridge. If it's well sealed, it should keep for at least two weeks and can be used any time you would reach for regular butter in a recipe.
Once the butter is made, you can strain it before letting it cool, but I like to keep the whole thing - the little brown bits (milk solids) that sink to the bottom translate to even more flavor. Just be sure to cool it in a shallow bowl so you can get to the milk solids easily.
To make brown butter: Cut up a pound of unsalted butter into small pieces, and put into a large, cold saucepan. Turn the burner to medium, and let the butter melt, swirling or stirring it occasionally. One pound of brown butter should take about 15-20 minutes to reach the right point. The butter will start to foam, and the milk solids will sink to the bottom before they turn brown, so keep an eye on it and stir frequently, so that it doesn't burn.
It's done when the mixture begins to turn golden and a release a nutty aroma. At this point, it will turn from golden to black very quickly (and black means bitter), so you'll want to transfer it immediately to your clean, shallow bowl, as it will keep cooking in the pan even after you take it off the heat. Let the butter cool down, then cover well and refrigerate. Brown butter loses about 25 percent of water weight as it cooks, so you'll be left with 75 percent of what you started with. Plan accordingly when measuring for recipes.
When ready to use, you'll need to let the butter soften slightly, but a small ice cream scoop works well to remove it from the bowl.
- Amanda Gold
See page F4 for another brown butter recipe.
Brown Butter Caramel Apple Cake
Serves 12-14
The cake:
2 cups cake flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
3/4 teaspoon cinnamon
10 ounces (2 1/2 sticks) brown butter, chilled until solid then brought to room temperature
1 cup sugar
1 cup lightly packed golden brown sugar
3 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/3 cup sour cream
1/4 cup apple cider or juice
2 cups peeled, cored and thinly sliced apples, cut into 1/2-inch lengths
1/2 cup apple butter (see Note)
The frosting:
1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar
3 tablespoons brown butter
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk
-- Chopped pecans, for garnish (optional)
For the cake: Preheat oven to 350°. Grease and flour two 9-inch cake pans.
Sift the flour, baking soda, baking powder, salt and cinnamon together, and set aside.
In a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream the brown butter with the two sugars until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes.
Add eggs one at a time, then the vanilla, sour cream and cider or juice, mixing well after each addition. After you add the apple juice, the mixture may look curdled, and that's OK. With the mixer on low, gradually add the dry ingredients until just combined, being careful not to over mix. Gently fold in the apple slices.
Divide batter evenly between the two cake pans, and bake until the top springs back and a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean, about 30 minutes. Remove from oven and place on wire racks to cool. After cakes have cooled slightly, run a knife around the edges of the pans and invert cakes out of the pans and onto the racks to cool completely.
When cakes are cool, place one on a cake plate with the flat side up (you may have to cut off a portion of the top to make it level) and cover the top with the apple butter. Place the second cake on top of the first.
For the frosting: Combine the brown sugar, brown butter, vanilla, salt and condensed milk in a medium size, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly, and cook for another 2-3 minutes until golden brown, smooth and thickened.
Spread the frosting, working quickly, over the top and around the sides of the layer cake. Sprinkle with pecans, if using, and let the icing cool.
Store covered at room temperature for up to 4 days.
Note: Apple butter can be found in the jam and preserves section of most grocery stores.
Per serving: 505 calories, 6 g protein, 76 g carbohydrate, 21 g fat (12 g saturated), 100 mg cholesterol, 350 mg sodium, 1 g fiber.
Orecchiette in Brown Butter with Toasted Pine Nuts, Capers & Currants
Serves 4
12 ounces orecchiette
1/4 cup capers, finely chopped
1/2 cup toasted pine nuts
1/3 cup currants
-- Zest of 1 lemon
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese + more for serving
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large shallot, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup reserved pasta water
-- Kosher salt and ground black pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons minced parsley
Instructions: Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil. Cook pasta until al dente, about 10-12 minutes.
In a small bowl, combine the capers, pine nuts, currants, lemon zest and Parmesan cheese and set aside.
Meanwhile, heat the butter in a large skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the butter solids begin to turn brown and release a nutty aroma, about 5-6 minutes.
Immediately add in the shallots and garlic and saute, stirring constantly, until shallots soften, about 3 minutes. Pour in the white wine and cook until reduced by half.
Strain pasta when finished, reserving pasta water. Add noodles and 1/4 cup of the pasta water to the skillet and toss until the noodles are fully covered with the sauce. Remove from heat, toss with the caper and pine nut mixture until thoroughly combined, and season to taste with salt and pepper. If desired, add more pasta water to thin. Toss in parsley, and serve with Parmesan cheese for grating at the table.
Per serving: 695 calories, 22 g protein, 80 g carbohydrate, 31 g fat (15 g saturated), 56 mg cholesterol, 557 mg sodium, 8 g fiber.
Brown Butter Lemon Squares
Makes 24 lemon squares
Richer than traditional lemon squares, these get added flavor from a brown butter shortbread crust. Though it makes 24 nice-size squares, you can cut them in half to make bite-size treats. These will hold in an airtight container for up to a week.
The brown butter shortbread crust
8 ounces brown butter, chilled until solid then brought to room temperature
3/4 cup sugar
1/3 cup packed brown sugar
2 cups flour
1 teaspoon salt
The lemon topping
6 eggs
2 1/2 cups sugar
-- Zest of 2 lemons
1 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 cup flour
-- Confectioner's sugar, for garnish
Instructions: Preheat the oven to 350°.
In a stand mixture fitted with a paddle attachment, cream brown butter with both sugars until light and creamy, 2-3 minutes. Add flour and salt, and mix slowly just until it has come together into a thick, ragged dough.
Press dough firmly and evenly into the bottom of a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Bake for approximately 15 minutes, until the edges are just beginning to brown.
While the dough is baking, whisk together the eggs, sugar, lemon zest, juice and flour until just combined. Remove the crust from the oven, and pour lemon mixture evenly over the top while it is still warm. Return to the 350° oven and cook until the custard is set and the top has a nice crust, about 35 minutes.
Remove from oven, let cool, and cut into squares. Dust the top with confectioner's sugar and serve.
Per serving: 260 calories, 3 g protein, 43 g carbohydrate, 9 g fat (5 g saturated), 74 mg cholesterol, 107 mg sodium, 0 fiber.
Petrale Sole with Ginger Brown Butter Beurre Blanc
Serves 3-4
For a traditional beurre blanc, strain the sauce to remove the shallots, garlic and ginger. I like it unstrained, which is a little more rustic but has a nice texture.
The sole:
1 pound petrale sole fillets
2 tablespoons olive oil
-- Kosher salt and ground black pepper, to taste
-- Juice of 1/2 lemon
The beurre blanc:
2 tablespoons butter
1 1/2 teaspoons freshly grated ginger
2 teaspoons minced garlic
2 tablespoons minced shallot
1/4 cup dry white wine
2 tablespoons lemon juice + more to taste
1 teaspoon Champagne vinegar
1/4 cup heavy cream
6 tablespoons brown butter, chilled until hard and cut into small pieces
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro, for garnish (optional)
Instructions: Preheat broiler. Place sole fillets on a rimmed baking sheet. Brush with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Broil just until cooked through and opaque in the center, 3-4 minutes. Remove from oven, sprinkle with lemon juice and set aside, tented with foil to keep warm.
Meanwhile, melt the 2 tablespoons butter in a medium saucepan on medium heat until just beginning to turn brown, about 3 minutes. Add the ginger, garlic and shallots, and stir constantly until the shallots have softened, 2-3 minutes. Add the wine, lemon juice and vinegar, and cook until almost entirely evaporated, 3-4 minutes. Add cream and stir to warm through. Remove from the heat and add the brown butter in pieces, whisking between each addition, until the sauce is slightly thickened. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and with more lemon juice, if desired.
Divide the fish between 3 or 4 plates, and spoon 2 tablespoons of sauce over each serving. Garnish with chopped cilantro, if desired, and pass the rest of the sauce at the table.
Per serving: 445 calories, 26 g protein, 11 g carbohydrate, 32 g fat (12 g saturated), 117 mg cholesterol, 490 mg sodium, 0 fiber.
Brown Butternut Squash & Scallion Risotto
Serves 4-6
If you have extra brown butter in the fridge already, just brown 4 tablespoons to start, and add the remaining 2 tablespoons at the end from your reserves.
5 to 6 cups low sodium chicken broth or stock
6 tablespoons unsalted butter (or 4, see headnote)
1 1/4 cups minced yellow onion
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 1/2 cups peeled, diced butternut squash (in 1/2-inch dice)
1 1/2 cups Arborio rice
1 cup chopped scallions, white and green parts
1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving
Kosher salt and ground black pepper, to taste
Instructions: In a small saucepan over medium-low heat, warm the chicken broth until just under a simmer, and keep on a back burner.
In a large saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the milk solids begin to turn golden brown and the butter takes on a nutty aroma, 5-6 minutes. If browning all 6 tablespoons of butter, remove 2 and set aside.
Lower heat so that the butter doesn't burn, quickly add onions and saute, stirring occasionally, until slightly softened and translucent, 2-3 minutes. Add white wine, and cook down until almost evaporated, another 3-4 minutes.
Add 2 cups of the butternut squash and 3/4 cup of the hot chicken broth, and gently simmer until squash is tender but not falling apart and broth is reduced, 8-10 minutes.
Gently stir in the Arborio rice, and mix until it is well incorporated.
Add another 1/2 cup of broth, and stir frequently until the liquid is absorbed. At this point, add the remaining 1/2 cup of butternut squash and another 1/2 cup of broth. Continue adding broth in 1/2 cup increments, letting the rice absorb the liquid between additions, until the rice is al dente and creamy, which should take about 3 1/2-4 cups of broth and approximately 20-25 minutes. Be sure to keep the heat adjusted so that the broth in the risotto stays at a gentle simmer.
When the risotto is cooked, stir in scallions and remove from heat. Let rest for 2-3 minutes, then stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons of brown butter and Parmesan. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve immediately, with extra Parmesan cheese.
Per serving: 335 calories, 10 g protein, 43 g carbohydrate, 14 g fat (8 g saturated), 35 mg cholesterol, 170 mg sodium, 4 g fiber.

Laurie's Lemon curd

2/3 cup lemon juice
5 eggs
cup sugar
1 stick butter, melted
3 T lemon zest

Blend eggs, juice and sugar in blender. Add Butter, Blend till smooth
In doubleboiler( medium heat), put egg juice sugar butter mix in, add zest.
Whisk constantly until consistancy of thin yogurt

Minestra Toscana

½ c Olive oil
1 large yellow onion
6 cups vegetable or chicken broth
2 cups white wine
1 bouquet garni (sprigs of thyme, oregano, and bay leaf)
S&P to taste
2 carrots, sliced julienne style
1 red pepper, sliced julienne style
1 zucchini diced
16 spinach leaves, finely chopped
½ olives
½ cups Italian rice
Directions
Pour the olive oil into a large soup pot and sauté the onion slightly for about 2 minutes over medium heat.
Add the broth, wine, bouquet garni, salt and pepper and bring the soup to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium
Add the carrots, pepper , zucchini, spinach and olive. Cover the pot and cook slowly for 1 hour. Add the rice and more broth or water if necessary, and simmer the soup for 15-20 minutes more, remove the bouquet garni. Serve hot .

Cotriade Bretonne (Monastery soups)

8 T Olive Oil
3 Onions chopped
6 Garlic cloves, chopped minced
10 cups water
Boquet garni (thyme, bay leaf, parsley, and Chervil)
8 potatoes sliced in quarters
¾ pound mackerel
¾ pound codfish
Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup white wine
6 T Chives
Croutons

Vinaigrette:
½ c olive oil
¼ c balsamic vinegar
S+p to taste
Pinch dry mustard

Directions
Pour the olive oil in a soup pot and sauté the onions lightly for 2 or 3 minutes. Add the garlic water and bouquet garni, and bring to a boil

Add the potatoes, cover the pot, and cook gently for about 30 minutes. Add the fish, salt, pepper, and wine and continue cooking the soup, covered at a light boil for 15 minutes.

Remove the pot from the heat and pass the soup through a colander. Place the solid parts (fish and potatoes) aside. Ladle the soup bouillon into deep bowls, sprinkle some finely chopped chives on top, add the croutons as garnish, and serve hot.

Prepare the vinaigrette by mixing all the ingredients together. Place an equal amount of fish and potato on each plate. Pour the vinaigrette on top and serve immediately after the soup. You may use freshly chopped parsley or chervil as a garnish on top of the vinaigrette.